![]() This process repeats until all of the bullets have been used. The revolving motion moves another round in front of the barrel and into the "ready" position, while the used casing remains in the wheel instead of being ejected like with a semi-automatic pistol. When the gun is fired, the cylinder revolves. Wheel guns most often have a 6-round capacity, giving them the nickname "six-shooter." The cylinder holds the bullets and the capacity of these guns is determined by the number of chambers in the cylinder. Pictures are always welcome, especially for those of us that are "reading challenged".Often referred to as a "wheel gun," a revolver operates with the use of a cylinder or wheel. I have a similar Iver Johnson that is worth about $450- it is apparently unfired, in the original box. A working specimen in good condition might run around $150- but on a 100 yr old gun, condition plays heavily into that. These were not high dollar guns when new. Value of any gun is based on make, model and condition. And I would suggest you have a smith check them before shooting anything in them. A good gunsmith can make a front sight for you- given some time. There is a 2 page entry in William Goforth's book on Iver Johnsons. There is not a lot of info out there on these. For cleanup, light oil or CLP, clean cloth, elbow grease. TELL ME THE CALIBER of the gun w/ no letter, can give you estimate of date of manufacture. Many were nickel-plated (corrosion protection) and some were blued. Well, one has a letter because the maker ran out of numbers without a letter, so they added a letter on some guns. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond to me. Not gonna be my main ones but would like to fire them. I'm looking for ammo so I can shoot a few rounds with them. Just so interested in anything u can share with me or guide me in direction to look them up, it's nice to have something 100 yrs old. I know they are not worth a lot of money but what's your thoughts on that? Just curious so I know from what I paid for them.Īre they supposed to have that bluing on them or silver color? A gun shop gave me a cleaner to get them clean but since I'm new at this didn't know if the bluing can be put on them again if they had it on.ĭo you know where I could find the front site for the one missing? That's the only thing wrong with them. Why does the one not have a letter in front of the numbers? Wow, only get them thru the mail, kinda funny. Too much firing will stretch the frame and get them out of time. When in doubt I have a gunsmith check them out before firing (goooood idea) and fire sparingly. Supposedly both brands are run once a year and are loaded to lower pressures purposely for use in old top breaks. Also, I have fired both 32 & 38 S&W made by Remington and Winchester in older IJs, H&Rs, and S&Ws without any problems. Both are good shooters and surprisingly well made, in better condition than some Model 3 IJs I have in the stable. I have two circa 1910 US revolvers, 32 hammer less and a 38 with hammer both having sn's in the 4 digits. I reload using both American Patriot Powder (APP) and FFF BP and have had nothing but fun. After the initial run the metal used for the cylinders was upgraded and supposedly OK for smokeless. Supposedly, the first 14,XXX or so made used old IJ Model 2 cylinders designed for black powder (BP) loads. I have read many posts on various forums and have seen several comments on early US Revolvers using parts left over when IJ began making Model 3's (smokeless powder).
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